Newly opened C’est Du Gâteau stands out among South Bank’s aging assortment of casual dining chains, hotel bars and ice cream.
Here’s a French patisserie run by industry veterans just a few dozen meters from one of the last remaining Doughnut Times in Brisbane.
Maybe that contrast makes the croissants taste better. Whatever the case may be, I was really impressed by my visit during opening weekend.
How was C’est Du Gâteau?
C’est Du Gâteau (182 Grey St, South Brisbane) displays its pristine pastries in a Lune-like counter display. An open window allows customers and passersby the opportunity to watch the bakers at work. Given the transient nature of South Bank’s foot traffic, this approach makes sense.
Lucy and I ordered a croissant and an almond croissant.
The croissant was a decent size and presented very well, with a consistent golden brown colour and slight sheen from the lamination. Biting into it, mild flakiness gave way to a soft, tender interior with a buttery undertone.
The almond croissant was similarly good-looking, with the generous size making it easy to share between two. When it comes to almond croissants, a lot of cafes simply bake leftover croissants with almond frangipane and sell them the next day. This is not the case at C’est Du Gâteau – the frangipane was baked inside the croissant. This offers the freshness of a baked-today croissant along with that desired almond taste.
The size of the almond croissant and the other croissant variations on offer would be ideal to split over coffee. C’est Du Gâteau doesn’t offer coffee at this stage, unlike its premiere croissant competitor in South Brisbane…
Australian patisseries in the post-Lune era
When Kate Reid founded Lune in 2012, she birthed a patisserie craze that took hold across Australia’s east coast through the remainder of the 2010s.
The humble Australian croissant was elevated to an artisan level with a price to match. Commonly joining it is the pane e chocolate, the ham and gruyere, and the almond, along with seasonal variations, all at a significant additional cost. A fairly comprehensive espresso and filter coffee program is on offer.
At a basic level, Lune showed how a lot of people are willing to part with $10 for a croissant, many accompanied by a $6 coffee. While that price seems shocking in isolation, to some you are buying more than a pastry. Per the brand’s marketing, you are nothing less than a patron of the scientific pursuit of croissant excellence.
The ‘Lune’ approach is contrasted by the comparatively traditional approach of French bakeries across Australia, which offer pastries as an accessory to their wide range of breads.
Among the best of these in Brisbane is Christian Jacques Artisan Boulanger, where C’est Du Gâteau pastry chef Frederic Pichon-Dignac formerly worked. Despite its hidden away Baildon St location in Kangaroo Point, the bakery draws huge crowds on weekends. Locals line up for their household bread alongside out-of-suburb folks looking to buy kouign amann and escargots. There are croissants as well, and they are highly recommended. No coffee – the bread is the focus here. When compared with the cost of Lune’s offering, it is easy to see the superior value on offer at boulangers like Christian Jacques.
Where does that leave C’est Du Gâteau?
C’est Du Gateau’s pastries are firmly in the French tradition, while the croissanterie emulates some of what made Lune such a success in its presentation. The refined product selection and tourist-friendly location are Lune hallmarks.
Lune’s closest location is a mere 10 minute walk away in South Brisbane, so it will be interesting to see if C’est Du Gâteau can build the sort of reputation required to pull customers from the croissanterie giant.
C’est Du Gâteau rating
Taste: 4/5
Value: 3/5
Experience: Not rated